Twenty-odd years after their first weekend in Budapest, Berol and Biro go back. The city has had a makeover. So, frankly, have they.
Berol: Back to Budapest, then. I can’t believe it’s been twenty-odd years.
Biro: Nor me. Last time you wanted to sleep in a fortress.
Berol: And you wanted to queue at American Express to cash traveller’s cheques.
Biro: We were young. Speaking of which, do I need to find a bank this time?
Berol: No. Tap your card on anything. Just don’t let the machine talk you into paying in pounds, take the forint price.
Biro: Still forints? I thought they joined the EU.
Berol: They did, back in 2004, the year after we first came. Never took the euro, though. Forint it is.
Biro: Right. And how are we getting into town, the minibus again?
Berol: There’s a bus now, the 100E, straight from the airport to Deak Ferenc ter in the centre. Quicker and cheaper for the two of us. The airport’s even got a new name, it’s Ferenc Liszt now.
Biro: Very cultured. So, a night at the Citadella for old time’s sake?
Berol: Ah. About that. It shut for years. They’ve only just reopened it, this spring, all done up, with an exhibition and a park and a glass bridge. But you can’t stay there any more. It’s a view and a museum now, not a hostel.
Biro: Pity. Lovely view, though.
Berol: The best in the city. We’ll go up at sunset, like we did before.
Biro: And the baths? Please tell me the baths are still there.
Berol: The baths are eternal, Biro. Szechenyi in the City Park if you want the grand one, Gellert for the art nouveau, Rudas if you want the old Turkish bath with the rooftop pool over the river.
Biro: A rooftop pool. Now that is an improvement.
Berol: Some things get better with age.
Biro: Speak for yourself, dear.
The plane begins its descent, the Danube catching the light below, our duo a little greyer and a great deal better informed.
From the past
Here is the original guide, written on the way in to that first trip, back in 2003. Some of the advice has dated. That is rather the point.
Berol and Biro’s quick arrival guide to Budapest, Hungary.
Berol: So where to this weekend Biro?
Biro: To the land of the Magyar, Budapest in Hungary.
Berol shifts in her airline seat and whips out the Lonely Planet Guide to Hungary, after all, the plane lands in twenty minutes.
Berol: We should take the transfer minibus to our hostel, there’s a ticket desk right in the arrival area and it’s the cheapest and quickest way.
Biro: But which hostel do you think?
Berol: Well, I think we should spend at least one night at Citadella, it is the large, fortress-like building that overlooks both Pest and Buda. It was used to attack the castle of Pest because the cannons on it were higher than the castle, so fire could easily be rained down.
Biro: Lovely dear, but it’s going to be late by the time we arrive. Is there anywhere to eat nearby?
Berol: Hmm, I don’t think there are any places outside of Citadella, but there is a restaurant and a cafe inside. You can sit outside and watch the sunset if you like.
Biro: Sounds promising. Pass me the guidebook will you dear.
Dutifully, Berol does so.
Berol: What are you looking up?
Biro: Well, first thing in the morning, I want to cash my traveller’s cheques and do a bit of shopping before we go sightseeing.
Berol: Well, I liked the sound of going to a spa, I hear they are wonderful. You get to relax in many types of hot and cold pools and saunas. You can have a massage and just relax to your heart’s content.
Biro: Sounds lovely. Here we go, the American Express office is in downtown Buda, right in the shopping district. We can get train tickets there as well as cash. It’s also easy to get to the castle and the river and everything.
Berol: Sounds lovely.
Biro: Hmmm.
Berol: Hmmm.
The plane makes its final descent with our intrepid duo fully prepared to handle the first few hours in Hungary, what a pair!
Key facts
- Country: Hungary; the capital is Budapest, split by the Danube into hilly Buda and flat Pest
- Currency: the forint (HUF), not the euro, despite EU membership since 2004
- From the airport: Budapest Ferenc Liszt International; the 100E Airport Express runs to the centre
- Do not miss: the thermal baths (Szechenyi, Gellert, Rudas)
- Citadella: reopened spring 2026 after a long restoration; a viewpoint and exhibition, no longer a place to stay
First written in 2003, revisited in 2026.